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Have you got a trailer that’s been sitting in the yard for a few years, where it’s been neglected and acquired that antique-rusted look? Is it time to clean up the yard, and you’re trying to decide if you should restore the trailer to use again or even sell it to make yourself some quick cash?
Looking at a project like your old rusty trailer in the yard can be daunting. Where do you start? Is it going to be worth your time? How much will it cost?
You’ll need to answer these questions before jumping into any restoration project. Luckily, we cover the primary considerations below, aiming to give you helpful advice to save you time and money.
Registration
The best place to start! What’s the point of repairing your trailer if, in the end, you will not be able to register it?
If your registration has lapsed, you will need to get a trailer inspection before registration. The requirements will depend on where you reside. Contact your local authorities to get the low down.
What is the State of the Existing Components?
You must closely inspect a few significant parts of the trailer to determine the ‘worthiness’ of repair or replacement.
Start by moving the trailer to a flat surface where you can quickly get around and underneath it for a closer look – this may be a big job if the trailer has flat tires or missing wheels!
Once you can inspect the trailer thoroughly, you should start by checking the chassis; surface rust is not a significant issue and can be repaired. Check the drawbar, main chassis rails, and cross members for flaking, pitted rust, or even where the metal has rusted all the way through. If this is the case, your trailer will likely have other significant problems. Cutting your losses and purchasing or building a new trailer may be cheaper and safer.
As a vehicle moves, it relies on the transmission of forces between itself and the road surface via the tires. This transmission is pivotal for maintaining control and stability, especially under varying road conditions.
The interaction between the vehicle’s powertrain system (all the components that work together to generate power and transmit it to the wheels to propel a car forward) and the road generates forces crucial for propulsion and manoeuvring. These forces are effectively managed by the tires’ contact with the road surface, ensuring that the vehicle remains responsive and stable during acceleration, braking, and steering.
Various factors influence the vehicle’s motion, including rolling resistance, wheel slip, and the wheels’ effective radius. Additionally, the transmission of lateral and longitudinal forces between the tires and the road surface profoundly impacts the vehicle’s overall behaviour and performance.
Trailer Components
If your trailer chassis is not riddled with cancerous rust, inspect the running gear’s condition, including the axles, hubs, brakes, springs, rims, and tires.
- Check the axles for heavy rust that may indicate they need replacing.
- Check any suspension bolts. If your trailer has been sitting for a long time, you should replace all bolts, nuts and washers.
- For shackle bolts, select a greaseable option and replace old rubber bushes with new nylon ones.
- If your trailer has rust, your brakes will also be rusted. If required, you can purchase trailer brakes as a separate unit that are relatively easy to install.
- Tires that have sat for several years start to show signs of deterioration in the form of cracks in the side walls and will require replacement.
- Suppose your running gear has yet to suffer significant rust, cracks, or deformation. In that case, you can tidy and prepare it for use. Strip all the components back and thoroughly clean them. You should also replace your wheel bearings.
- Inspect your safety chains and check that the attachment configuration on your trailer complies with local regulations. Over time, regulations can change, and you may need to meet new requirements to register your restored trailer.
- Check all other components for overall operation: jockey wheel, coupler (handbrake, if fitted), etc.
Since you’re already working on your trailer, it may be worth adding some gussets to strengthen critical areas such as;
- Spring hangers – plate both sides of the hanger to prevent any chance of the hangers becoming a weak point.
- Check where your trailer deck/tray is attached to the drawbar. Do not weld across the front of the drawbar members, this can lead to fatigue cracking. You can, however, add a triangle gusset or a section of SHS/RHS (Tension Bar) to add strength.
Customisations
Now is an excellent time to consider customisations, alterations or changes.
Maybe you want to change the style of brakes from override to electric? Perhaps you need a set of ramps with built-in storage? Or a spare wheel holder? Make these changes now – avoid cutting or drilling your trailer after painting!
Wheel Guards
If new wheel guards are required, you can usually purchase prefabricated guards to suit single and tandem axle arrangements. Alternatively, you can fabricate your own; remember that this will require access to sheet-bending machinery.
Flooring/Sheeting
Generally, this is where you will find the first signs of rust, typically due to this surface being constantly subject to wear. It is also where two metal surfaces meet (i.e., the sheets sit on top or against the trailer frame). Where two metal surfaces meet, paint cannot penetrate; thus, you have untreated metal; moisture will enter overtime and rust will form. This is one reason why hot dip galvanisation is considered the best coating option for trailers built from steel – the galvanising process enables these small gaps to be penetrated.
Replace the flooring with a new material that suits the intended use of the trailer. Two of the most common flooring materials are sheet metal like checker plate and timber planks. Still, there are many trailer flooring options.
Coating/Painting
By now, you should have determined if your trailer is worth restoring. If you’ve:
- Repaired or replaced any structural members and added any additional bracing/gussets,
- Restored/purchased new running gear,
- Repaired flooring/decking, sides and gates,
… it’s now time to coat your refurbished trailer.
The standard methods for coating/painting a trailer include DIY paint, powder coating, and hot dip galvanising. Coating your trailer is one of the most critical steps for protection. Thus, we have written a dedicated article to help you decide which option best suits your situation and needs – click the link to read more about trailer paint options. Suppose you are painting your trailer (i.e., using the DIY option). In that case, you can seal seams or joints in your trailer with a bead of high-quality automotive adhesive to prevent water from intruding and causing corrosion.
Electricals
If your trailer has been sitting for a long time, you will need to do some electrical work. Since you are going to do some electrical work, it is best to replace it all and prevent having more problems later on.
Strip all the old wiring, lights, and reflectors. Check your local guidelines for what lighting and reflectors are needed (changes may have been made since you last used your trailer). We recommend using LED lights and screw-on reflectors, soldering all joints, and protecting them with heat shrink (or using ‘solder splice connectors’). Use conduit to cover any wires not running through the chassis and secure at intervals no less than 500mm apart.
How Much Will It Cost To Repair vs Purchase New
* Prices used are in AUD and are rough estimates. Source prices from local suppliers to gain a more accurate estimate.
** The below cost estimates are general and based on a 8x6ft tandem axle box trailer.
Repair Costs
- New steel – You will likely need some new section steel (SHS, RHS etc.) and steel sheeting. Estimated cost: $400.
- Running gear – Depending on their condition, you may need to replace all or just specific components (e.g. brakes, bearing and bolts). Estimated cost: $300.
- New electricals – Replace all. Estimated cost: $200.
- New paint (DIY paint option) – Estimated cost: $300.
- Registration – It is worth considering the registration cost, as many trailer manufacturers will include this cost when purchasing a new trailer.
Purchasing New
You can pick up a new tandem axle box trailer for around $5,000 (this is a BASIC, “cheap variety”).
Building Your Own Trailer?
You could build your own for around $3,000 – our trailer plans provide complete cut lists, helping you purchase the right materials.
Making the Decision!
The most challenging part is deciding if restoring your rusty trailer is worth your time and money! Or maybe you don’t mind and you’re just looking for a fun project? Either way, the fun begins once you have made up your mind.
If you decide to restore your rusted trailer, you will be satisfied knowing that you have brought your old piece of equipment back to life and saved it from going to landfill. You will also feel great satisfaction looking at your freshly painted trailer.
